RE: Underfloor heating...

["Hawes,Timothy Edward (GEG)" <haweste@xxxxxxx>]

I'm not an expert but I'd guess it'd be easier to remove a layer of your
floor, fit the pipes (if you wanted to go with a wet system) and then put a
new screed over the whole lot. The pipe spacing is pretty close and by the
time you've spent the effort carefully cutting each channel it's probably
quicker just to remove all of the old screed. You may also want to consider
insulating underneath the pipes so that more of the heat makes it into your
room. 

Marble, slate, ceramic tiles, even lino / Amtico etc. are all excellent
choices for UFH since they have a fairly high thermal conductivity. Avoid
carpets (but you're doing that anyway :-) ). Even if you do decide for an
"insulating" floor covering, provided you specify what it will be
up-front, you can account for it to a certain extend by spacing the pipes
closer together.

Doing a few rooms, even at different times will lower your cost per m2
since you can spread the cost of the manifold, controller, thermostatic
valves, installation etc. over a greater area.

There's lots more advice over at the UK_Selfbuild forum at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild

Also see the FAQ:
http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/files/Download%20Folder/


HTH,

Tim H.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Harrison
> 
> I have a concrete subfloor on the whole ground floor. I am resigned
to
> the fact that I will need to be channelling into this, and fitting
> "weird stuff", particularly given that I want the
thermostatting to be
> controlled by HV / xAP.
> 
> The sitting room backs onto the utility room, so the manifold 
> / control
> valves could go there. The second / third rooms to "go
underfloored"
> would be the hall and kitchen, both of which are also possible. In
all
> three cases, part of the motivation is to replace the current
flooring
> finish (carpet in hall and sitting room, cheap nasty plastic stuff
in
> kitchen.)
> 
> The plan is to go with a marble floor for the hall, wood for 
> the sitting
> room and "to be negotiated" for the kitchen. Fortunately,
after much
> hunting around, we have found a friend of a cousin who owns a
marble
> quarry in Italy.
> 
> Finances, and lifestyle issues, dictate that it would be better to
do
> these rooms one at a time.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hawes,Timothy Edward (GEG) [mailto:haweste@xxxxxxx] 
> Sent: 2 December 2002 16:12
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Underfloor heating...
> 
> 
> Typically with a wet system the pipes are clipped 
> *underneath* the floor
> and aluminium diffusers fitted to spread the heat. You obviously
need
> access to underneath the floor to fit this :-) 
> 
> Also, think carefully about where you'd site the manifold and
control
> valves for a wet system. They can be bulky and also get hot
> (~30-40degC).
> 
> In some circumstances electric UFH vendors recommend covering a
wooden
> floor with ply (or hardboard I can't actually remember :-(  ) and
then
> fitting the mat etc. on top of that. It can reduce movement / flex
and
> help prevent cracking of the adhesive / grout.
> 
> FYI, my bathroom floor was 8'x2', 18mm chipboard sheets.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Tim H.
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jon Payne
> > 
> > I was thinking about this for my bathroom:
> > 
> > The (upstairs) bathroom has normal tongue-and-groove
> > floorboards - can you use
> > any type of UFH on a wooden floor?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Jon
> 

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