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RE: LD10 with bathroom light and automatic fan


  • To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Subject: RE: LD10 with bathroom light and automatic fan
  • From: Bazza <bazza2000@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:10:45 -0800 (PST)
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

Keith,

Cheers for the insight,  your setup sounds like the
correct one, as if a "capacitor is being charged".
I think I may go with the LD10 option first and see if
anything pop's or fizzes at different dim levels and
then if it does, just use an AD10.
Just one more query, would using the AD10 have just
the same effect as using a normal light switch?
The only thing I'm worried about is when using a lamp
module with an appliance and the manual says it could
either melt of cause the transformer to blow up.
Would this be possible in my bathroom fan scenario,
and therefore would the AD10 be a safe solution?

Bazza.
--- Keith Doxey <lists.diyha@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi Bazza,
>
> I was pondering this a few minutes ago whilst laying
> in the bath.
>
> The fan has a permanent live feed which is used for
> the overrun. I believe
> the timer input is only used as a trigger. I know
> that with my fan, it takes
> a few seconds to start as if a capacitor is being
> charged.
>
> If the light is turned on for only a few seconds it
> can be switched off and
> the fan will never start.
>
> If the light is turned off immeadiately the fan
> starts it will only run for
> a few seconds, and longer than this and it does its
> normal setting.
>
>  Based on the above I believe the following may
> happen.
>
> 1. No enough to trigger the fan below a certain dim
> level.
> 2. It may take longer for the fan to start and
> overrun may not be quite as
> long.
> 3. It works perfectly
>
> I doubt that any damage would be caused to the fan
> but the only way to prove
> it is to try.....at your own risk of course.
>
> Unfortunately I cant test my theory..... I lay in
> the bath working out how I
> could attempt to modify the switch to provide
> momentary operation.....
> worked out that by removing the ceiling speaker I
> could place the LD10 next
> to the transformer in the ceiling void (forward
> planning in case of
> transformer failure).... then realised the flaw in
> my plan :-(
>
> I cant get to the junction box in the ceiling where
> the switch wire is fed
> from. BUGGER !!!!
> The reason for the ceiling speakers (apart from
> Audio in the bathroom) is
> that the bathroom is a flat roofed extension and
> when I fitted the low
> voltage lighting I realised thet the transformer
> could fail one day so it
> needed to be accessable. The ceiling speakers are
> easily removable to gain
> access for replacement. Unfortunately the junction
> box is screwed to a joint
> about 30 inches further across the ceiling :-(
>
> Also just disassembled the fan and greased the
> bearing because it was
> squealing. I would buy a new one but mine is about
> 15 years old and about 6"
> x 8". All the new ones are 6" square. Guess who
> decided it would be good to
> tile the wall all the way to the ceiling :-(
>
> Keith
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: Bazza [mailto:bazza2000@xxxxxxx]
>   Sent: 24 February 2002 20:09
>   To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
>   Subject: [ukha_d] LD10 with bathroom light and
> automatic fan
>
>
>   Hi,
>
>   Can anyone give me any information on which module
> to
>   use (i.e. LD10 or AD10 DIN) on a bathroom light
> that
>   is connected to an automatic fan.
>   I'm not too sure if will be safe to use an LD10
> with
>   DIM on an appliance such as a bathroom fan unit.
>   I believe the configuration is such that when the
>   bathroom light is switched off, the fan runs for a
>   further few minutes depending on its charge from
> the
>   during of the light being on.
>   I believe this is quite common in a lot of new
> houses
>   nowadays.
>
>   Many thanks,
>
>   Bazza.
>
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